Weird fashion
McQueen: the show
It is from now on official: the McQueen house will survive its creator. François Pinault, chairman of PR - group which Alexander McQueen in 2002 had joined - indeed has just declared that more the nice homage which one could pay to him was to continue to make live its name through its claw…
Whereas a press release of KCD announces to us that the collection autumn/winter 2010-2011 of Alexander McQueen will be presented in committee restricted at the time of next the fashion week Parisian, the group PR has just expressed its desire to continue to develop the mark of the missing creator last on February 11. It should be said that after having supported the claw with end of arm during its first years of existence, those which also hold Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent would not have any interest to leave the ship…
If François Pinault appeared particularly moved at the time of the presentation by the annual results of the group, it therefore did not lose of it the direction of the businesses and account to make perdurer well the McQueen company, more especially as this one has proven to be profitable for 3 years. Lee Alexander McQueen should thus enter the circle of the large dressmakers who saw their work remaining to them after their disappearance…
Yes but here, if the heritages of Cristobal Balenciaga, Christian Dior or Gabrielle Chanel contain good number of strong lines and iconic clothing (constituting rich, exploitable files ad infinitum by their successors), the content of the will of Alexander McQueen is very different, this one holding more impalpable emotion that of the stylistic treaty. It thus seems complicated to entrust to another designer the keys of the McQueen house, so much this one still sought its rate/rhythm of cruising of living of its creator.
Admittedly, while composing of the collections mixing historical references, technocouture and fascination for vanities, any young creator a gifted bit could take again on his account the expensive topics with the designer. But which will be able to transcend them without denaturing them, nor to let itself influence by the considerations more commercial than creative than the group PR will not fail to impose on its next foal? The question of the succession is likely to prove to be thorny…
However, to judge some by the recent clearing of the sales of McQueen parts, PR should perhaps start by celebrating the work of its late employee by republishing some of his greater successes, in order to consolidate the image of McQueen in the collective memory. To want too quickly to find a substitute to him, PR is likely to kill in egg a claw which only requires to continue to exist, for little that one lets it make his mourning…
Marc Jacobs procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011
Transfer with 180 degrees for the collection autumn/winter 2010-2011 of Marc Jacobs: that which had expressed for a few seasons a disproportionate fascination for the eighties indeed has just taken the total opposite course to its last addictions. The strident madness of the Eighties thus replaced rigour, simplicity and pragmatism, the objective being to return to the function first of clothing: to be carried…
When at the end of its procession, the journalists - as much under the shock as under the charm - pressed themselves to question it, Marc Jacobs spoke as well about “anti-modern demonstration” as of “conservatism”. It should be said that this one once more struck where it was not awaited. Whereas one knows his inclination for the superposition of clothing, the codes and the influences like his tendency to transform each one of his processions into high place of the hypitude, the creator has this time selected of miser on a return to a state of calm stripped of superlatives.
However, Marc Jacobs wants of simplicity in vain, he does not make any therefore the things with half. Thus, when it decides to finish some - all at least for the moment - with the hustle surrounding the fashion weeks, it is not satisfied to reduce the make up of its models or erasing the shoulder pads of its podium: it decides neither more nor less to leave in crusade against all the forms of distractions…
It thus removes the majority of the heads of poster of its casting, puts forward the mannequins little known and does not hesitate to call upon castées young women earlier a few days in the streets of New York. It also reduces the decoration of its show to the strict minimum and exchanges its kilt for a costume of most traditional, so as to not focus the attention on any artificial imagination, but of course clothing themselves. Besides the latter did not need any setting in imposing mouth to appear in perfect adequacy with unconscious the fashion…
Revealing traditional behaviours, racées and composed of perfectly cut parts, the mannequins ravelled wisely on a resumption of “Over the Rainbow”. Cashmere and flannel, pea coats, skirts midday, complete-jackets and pullovers of librarian were thus put at the honor, forming in turn silhouettes 30 ' S, 40 ' S or 70 ' S. essence is then to play with the concept of conservatism, without to focus itself over one decade in particular.
Nevertheless, to look at there more closely, one finds well in this collection with the paces of anti-bling-bling plea humour and intrinsic irreverence with the Marc Jacobs style. By the means of a made iridescent transparent trench, of a toilet covered with spangles, an evening dress heated of a maximum pullover, a waistcoat oversize bordered of opulent fur or subtle exaggeration of such or such volume, Marc Jacobs insufflates thus with her collection forces and freshness.
While proposing a luxuriously simple, highly portable cloakroom and completely at the catches with reality, Marc Jacobs places himself certainly once again at the avant-garde of the tendencies…
Fashion week of New York - Autumn/winter 2010-2011
In New York, smart pragmatism reigned more than ever as a Master, drawing for the next winter elegant American rocked in turn influences retro, modern, warmy, traditional or army. With shows concentrating on essence, this week of processions raised the veil on a portable fashion, but nevertheless removed…
If it is still too early to synthesize in some tendencies the stylistic roadmap of the next winter season, one can however start to follow the tracks launched by the New Yorkean fashion week, that it is on the level of the recent evolutions of the sphere mode or the new parts to be adopted.
- Of Carine Roitfeld in Anna Wintour, all are formal: a new small prince of the mode was born, under the features of the creator Joseph Altuzarra. With his silhouettes carbon seeming to be drawn especially for the writer of Paris Vogue, this young man knew - after having made its weapons at Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Givenchy - to touch criticism in full heart. It should be said that it offered a cloakroom to him race and ultra structured, where the extreme control of the cut is used for wonder a sexyness without division.
- It is not fashion week without the face of a mannequin being essential nothing any more but another. In New York, it was thus very young Polonaise JAC (born on January 15, 1994) who stole the high-speed motorboat to her colleagues - Freja Beha, Mirte Maas and Jacquelyn Jablonski - by opening four of the most looked at shows, namely Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Altuzarra.
- While misant on a list of guests reduced, an almost non-existent make up and a personal look of most traditional, Marc Jacobs knew to prove that the fashion was before a a whole history of clothing.
- If the Mulleavy sisters propose to us a collection Rodarte one nothing lighter than with the accustomed one, they do not continue any less to develop with the extreme the art of the matter patchwork, thus registering their speech in continuity. In addition, in closing their presentation of some mystics bridal toilets, Rodarte show that they could prevail very well in this field… To follow.
- In spite of the economic climate pushing the various houses to avoid the too strong takings risk (in order to ensure their sales), some dare despite everything to be endangered while continuing to question the fashion. One thinks in particular of the duet Proenza Schouler, which reveals an alternate denim line - created in collaboration with J Brand - whose graphics graffiti leave perplexed. However, the launching of the PS11 (little brother of the PS1) should enable him to avoid any financial pitfall…
- This fashion week was also the occasion for The Row - the top-of-the-range claw of the Olsen sisters - to take its first steps on a catwalk. The exercise was correctly controlled, emphasizing becoming basics that the customers of the mark should appreciate.
- One first of all notes the confirmation of the tendency army which, with Marc By Marc Jacobs, Richard Chai or Rag & Bone, continuous to impose the reign of the pallet olive and the loans on the military universe.
- The small black dress is made from now on leather, wheel of this fact to the minis in skin its statute of “leather leader”… (Alexander Wang, Altuzarra)
- When the skirts are shortened dangerously, one does not hesitate to borrow from the dancers their long gaiters (Alexander Wang). These last will be able - if one believes Thakoon of it - to thread besides on trousers…
- One also thinks of multiplying the layers of clothing, the superposition being one of the strong points of the various New Yorkean shows (Rag & Bone, Y-3, Thakoon, Richard Chai).
- The jackets misent over a new length by adopting the format cropped. Leading us to superimpose the layers, this style of cut gives rise to new a dress code, which consists in carrying its jacket cropped to the top of a coat (Rag & Bone, ADAM, Y-3).
- Still with its stammerings last winter, the passion for the skin with wool on is seen confirmed in New York. One finds some indeed in all the forms, of most traditional with the more casual, while passing through less the conformist.
- Close-cropped velvet tries an opening in fashion medium, infiltrating in dressingrooms as well “evening” (Altuzarra, Erin Fetherston) that homewear urban (Alexander Wang).
- In addition, the addicts with silky peelings will find within the American processions what to appease their passion, and this in a more or less strange way. It is true that the fur heats as well there shoes (Ralph Lauren) that sleeves or shoulders (Zac Posen)…
- One also underlines that the spirit of Rocky Balboa floated on some presentations, in the shape of hood worthy of the Italian-American boxer (Prabal Gurung, Erin Wasson, Vena Cava).
To finish, it is noted that if one were one of the purchasers from Saks, one would immediately pose an option on the coats Rag & Bone, the blazers DKNY, all the Marc Jacobs collection, the skins with wool on Reed Krakoff, the cape Alexander Wang and the dresses Proenza Schouler…
Single Topshop - Autumn/winter 2010-2011
Halfway between the collection Opening Ceremony which took as a starting point the film “max and the maximonstres” and an interpretation délicieusement mild nutter of “the one night Dream by summer”, the last opus Topshop Unique proves to be more succeeded…
In this medium of fashion week London, force is to note that the show having held the attention more is indeed that of the Topshop giant. As much to say that by making it possible to young designers to make creative farmhouse-market, this last knew to aim just. Created in 2001 and ravelling since 2005, Unique did not have of cease to evolve/move in the good sense by proposing alternating shows original ultra parts and portable looks.
For the next winter, it is thus of quite curious creatures which ravelled on a carpet of dead sheets. With their hair hirsute and their animal cap, the mannequins resembled more - with the first access - some escaped Shamans of a reserve rather than to models likely to emphasize clothing. However, to look at there more closely, the Single cloakroom autumn/winter 2010-2011 proves to be more promising…
Making the good share with the shearling, the collector's items decline this last under all the seams. That it is in maximum portfolio, leather jacket or parka oversize, the wool of sheep does not require whereas to be adopted.
Bathing in an atmosphere huntress, the color range is declined as for it according to the natural colours of the underwoods, thus sticking to moods camouflages floating in the air of time. Lichen, foam, green of water and beige infuse behaviours then daring the format oversize, the mix and match of matters and the telescopings of influences.
Thus follow one another hunting gear sheathed of a fine harnessing of leather, Luella jacket at wheels heated of long gaiters knitted, rustic waistcoat XXL on delicate dress of muslin or false fur making divinement illusion. Without speaking about the delicate combinations made up of a delicate matter patchwork associated with the thick cosyness of wool gaiters, or printed dresses of scrutinizing owls…
With its pom pom draw up and its micro shorts, this collection should undoubtedly allure the brit girls, but also good number of modeuses - all confused nationalities - which will not fail to frantically fill their basket on Topshop.com. The shoes in mode winter, the gaiters to be related to a slim as well as the coat trapezoid oversize in sheepskin indeed have all that it is necessary to push us with the purchase…