Procession Isabel Marant - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

Before working out its collection autumn/winter 2010-2011, it would not be astonishing that Isabel Marant occurred in loop the DVD from Grease. With their tails of horse and their broad earrings, its mannequins indeed seem to have wanted to pay homage to semi-sparkling Sandy Olsson, but also to the culture fifties, another heroin of film of Randal Kleiser…

For the next winter, Isabel Marant starts a new creative cycle, where boots studées and winks 80 ' S completely disappeared. With this intention, it invites the fashionista to be melted in the universe of the Fifties (when balls of promotion, cinemas in the open air and American football constituted the sap of the period high school), so as to propose a new icon to him - the actress Olivia Newton-John - who will be able to feed her cloakroom in retro innovations.

It is true that it is enough to evoke the fifties to see at once re-appearing the tempting image of this young girl of good family to the pace in turn ingenuous and teaser. Evolving/moving of the wise twinset pastel to the flamer combination of leather, its character, in perfect adequacy with the girl Isabel Marant, carried in it what to inspire with creative the broad outlines of its future cloakroom bankable…

Thus Freja Beha opened the procession in skinny roulotté on ankle, wind-breaker of biker skimped and escarpins pointed. With the wire of the passages, it is all the universe of the youth of the time which was seen revisited: sporting wind-breaker on skinny, sweat borrowed from the boyfriend football player, pantacourt, leggings 7/8, jacket as a Jean diluted… anything was not forgotten.

However, if Isabel Marant is inspired largely by Sandy Olsson to work out the looks of its models, that does not prevent it therefore from affixing its own key with the whole of its Grease collection. It organizes thus its wind-breakers of student Yankee by working them in duet carbon deer/leather, exchanges the sexy long-line bras of the time for pullovers loose hardly slipped into the belt of trousers capri and attenuates the glitter of a legging by a jacket boyish oversize or a check shirt.

In addition, by voting by plebiscite the duet escarpins indented/length 7/8, it puts forward the sensual dimension of ankle, well too often underestimated…

One will regret nevertheless that Isabel Marant entirely did not make clean slate of the past, by preserving some gimmicks his preceding collections. The shoulder pads in Balmain indeed start to be more than dated, while the military commercial starts of certain parts curl sometimes the inconsistency.

To finish, one notes that the skinny out of leather version biker in Capri will be undoubtedly one of the must cuts next season, without speaking about the small wind-breaker round collar…

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Dior procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

In spite to have been the angular stone of the last collection Dior Haute couture, equestrian art continues this season to fascinate John Galliano. However, if the topic remained the same one, the angle of incidence proves somewhat different, allowing to the Master places to affix with its rider one declads attractive, fault of being new…

With this collection (which it entitled “the seduction of the libertine”), the artistic director of Dior once more allows himself to develop the register of stripped the 1900. However, if it takes again the almost intrinsic laces, ribbons and other transparencies today with its style, it associates to them another of its topics of predilection: the wardrobe male of the 18th century. That thus enables him to constitute a cloakroom where the duality of the Dior woman more than was ever explored.

At the same time mischievous and sensual, dominating and delicate, the MUSE of John Galliano is moulted successively as a young stableman in jodhpur, as a courtesan in trench with Basque and suggestive combination, when it does not borrow from Gavroche its declads gouailleuse…

In practice, Galliano multiplies the variations around the leather - which wants to be either ultra boyish then, or thoroughly perforated - as well as creations in muslin draped, embroidered or interlaced wheels and laces, which often reveal a retro linen room.

If the creator had stopped there, the collection would probably have been considered to be disappointing, and this in spite of its extreme esthetism. It would have indeed been easy to regard it as redundant (because too near to the claw of John Galliano) and to show it to plagiarize the seam pâlement…

However, by enamelling its cloakroom of many attractive shoes and some parts of knittings impressed of languorous softness, Galliano makes it possible Dior to maintain the desire and to continue to fall under modernity.

Bathing in camaieux mahogany tree/caramel/tobacco/hazel nut, long the cuissardes semi-leather semi-deer, the low boots with the riding support and the back finely laced, the ankle boots equipped with a sheath taking again the principle of the gaiter or the boots needles more skinny that one second skin are as many models mixing with audacity spirit, tradition and seduction.

One notes in addition that the passion from which currently knitting profits seems to have found here an expression new and refined (but nevertheless cosy), in the shape of a full waistcoat ivory laced of broad turquoise ribbons which is likely to strongly mark the spirits.

Lastly, it seems that the twisted gaiters threaded on a pair of stiletto heels could well quickly make school on the Parisian paving stones…

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Procession Celine - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

n hardly two seasons, Phoebe Philo managed to convert the fashion sphere with its new religion. It is indeed before an assembly carrying high her colors of the summer 2010 - camel, caramel, nude and chocolate - that Philo presented its cloakroom for the next winter. As purified as sexy, this last gives us more as ever desire for being a Celine woman…

The passion caused - as well in the press as at the modeuses ones - by the first collection of Phoebe Philo at Celine implicitly required the transformation of its first attempt into master stroke at the time of the opus autumn/winter 2010-2011. However, force is to note that creative English does not have demerit, delivering a cloakroom sportswear not having anything to envy the rigour of Helmut Lang…

Strong of the plebiscite received last October, Phoebe Philo thus peacefully could continue to take along the Parisian house towards horizons where smart and pragmatism are moulted in a wardrobe incisor concentrating on essence. It emanates then such an obviousness of this woman in riding boots, skirt with the knees and wool pulp coat which one wonders how one could carry another thing that of the Celine by Phoebe Philo…

It is true that the insurance conferred by the dress code imagined by the ex-DA from Chloé is worth well all the face lifts and blow-dries of the world. It would thus be enough to slip into this skirt pencil out of waxed leather and to slip on the associated lace tee-shirt to feel ready to take down any market…

Phoebe Philo arrives to magnifier the Celine heritage diablement while making modern the iconic middle-class customer of the house. With this intention, she proposes to him to be devoted to the leather, which she combines in simplicity mode, then transforming of the parts a priori without stories into clothing subtly tempting…

She thus plates broad rectilinear leather pockets on many wrongfully wise models and declines her signals casual in version leather, when she does not work leather in loose polished skirt or leg of buttoning contrasted.

Taking again the esthetics of Courrèges or Lang, Phoebe Philo releases the woman of its fanfreluches and an alternative to the over sexyness having too often made offers to him the play of the mode. She makes even much more, by delivering the keys of a perfect pace to us of which the function is more to be used as ECRIN to put forward.

With final, one will retain that while combining top-of-the-range matters, rational volumes and sexyness controlled, Philo managed to synthesize the DNA of a contemporary pace, easy and flattering, thus answering the one of our most vital waitings as regards mode…

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Procession Sonia Rykiel - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

The tendency knitting promising to be massive, the mesh Sonia Rykiel appears more than ever of topicality. Add to that some Swedish settings in mouth as well as a strong presence of Nathalie Rykiel in the media (promotion of its book “You will be a woman, my daughter” obliges) and you will cause what one needs of curiosity for booster rocket the visibility of the last collection of the Parisian house…

The next winter, the modeuses ones will be coiled in opulent woollen articles, will be reassured in some Ankara meshs and will assume the pullovers knitted by their great-aunt… This is not one énième prediction Paco Rabannienne, but well part of the roadmap delivered by the prescribers of tendencies which are Miuccia Prada, John Galliano, Phoebe Philo like Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

However, mesh rimant with Sonia Rykiel, it is with the farm the intention to find there our futures “it” pullovers that one went to discover the collection germanopratine season.

Always as mischievous, the Rykiel girls presented a cloakroom putting more as ever knitting at the honor. This last materialized on pimpantes draped dresses closed of a nurse pin, loose dresses pullover, a maximum electric blue waistcoat or some small sweaters long-line bra. On their side, the traditional multicoloured stripes of the claw - which made the beautiful days of H&M - were entitled also to some passages.

In addition to knittings, Nathalie Rykiel made the good share at piece-rates olive, the baggy 7/8, the fine retro muslins and multiple the microphone toilets in feather of ostrich (slightly already seen), but also tried to decline - with more or less of happiness - the expensive concept of oversize to the claw.

The mannequin Mirte Maas indeed opened the procession in an oversize costume, whose passage of the podium to the street seems compromised by the overzealousness of the tailor, who surely over-estimated his capacity to make the oversize becoming…

However, so the aforementioned costume seems to be escaped wall cupboard of Bozo the clown, it should well be recognized that among the other parts having acquired a format xxl, some appeared as desirable as cosy (one thinks in particular of the maximum trench/dressing gown currant, the trousers ultra boyish broad and the opulent jacket in fur corbel).

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Chanel procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

Once more, Karl Lagerfeld proves to us that impossible is not Chanel. It should be said that when it imagines the decoration of its shows, this one does not move back in front of nothing. This time, that which will receive soon the Legion of honor did not hesitate to be made deliver to the Large palace a piece of ice-barrier, intended to be used as ECRIN for the new Chanel collection…

Would the skies be subjected to goodwill of Karl Lagerfeld? Always it is that in this morning of March 9, it is an arctic cold which the fashionistas had to face to arrive on the spot of the Chanel show, where they discovered a setting in scene not less refrigerating. As maestro of extraordinary, the DA of the claw had indeed made transport on a catwalk encircled small white banks, in order to contain the water in which the models ravelled

Once the first surprise passed, a second shock awaited the guests when Abbey Lee Kershaw, , appeared in

The tone was given: Lagerfeld would not be deprived to exploit the stereotypes of the universe of the Far North, daring to avoid its Cambon' S girl of more than fur than it had never used some. Thus such of the polar bears having decided to offer a wardrobe Chanel, Freja Beha, Rocha Coconut or tried to make smart of broad trousers of fur, in their affixing small leather chocolate jackets and long saltires.

Thereafter, they were some skirts in long hair, surmounted iconic tweed house jackets, which tried to gain in smart attitude. With more or less of success…

At this stage, it is important to specify that also presents is the fur (recovering and minaudières, and bordering grinds, skirts and dresses), the latter, posting a synthetic pedigree 100%, did not éradiqué any wild mink herd. Mixed with behaviours these then drew a collection all in contrasts and not stripped of humour.

However, , of other made the good share with the innovation, and this especially as regards knitting, strong point of the next season. Thus tweed para and that the Ankara wool gave rise to a like with . Without speaking about the , délicieusement purified and finally ready-made clothes…

For the last passages, Karl delivered a succession of immaculate toilets, revolving mainly around the mesh (what revealed them only more delicate). One will retain of this final highly elegant , but also the which, composed of a given lustre to sweater, a long lace skirt and an opulent pair moon boots, extremely well illustrated at the same time delicate and excessive spirit of this masterly Chanel show.

Lastly, if one could follow on line the cast iron of the ice-barrier at the time of the procession, one would be wrong to see any there plea for the ecological cause. Indeed, one hardly dares to imagine the assessment carbon of the transport of this end of ice…

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Wedding Dress Fall 2009 trends

Wedding Dress Fall 2009 trends

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