Christopher Kane - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

At Christopher Kane, if a vice of floral reasons succeeded Vichy primesautier of the summer 2010, the creator does not propose to us therefore a cloakroom outrageusement romantic. The Scottish designer does not have indeed cease to develop the obscure side of his MUSE, magnet to sensualize his atours trompeusement wise…

It is rare that a collection Christopher Kane generates an immediate feeling of euphoria within the assistance. While seizing not very inclined elements to enter easily to the hit-parade of the tendencies, the small one protected from Donatella Versace often destabilizes its public, before leading it - at the end of some passages - to adulate its work.

It should be said that Kane knows like anybody how to return desirable matters and not very promising graphics. For the autumn/winter 2010-2011, it seizes thus a lace carbon without true attraction and embroidered flowers pointing out the reasons trimming the stoles of the catholic priests to place them in contact with leather, so as to offer a light twist fashion to them.

On the catwalk, the rebellious teenager - who inspires to each season a new character with Christopher Kane - gradually forsakes her kilt of schoolgirl for behaviours more and more dark sexy knack. Never trash and always controlled, the toilets of Kane play with the paradoxes: they profit indeed from mix and match of antagonistic elements, pushing their ambiguity with their paroxysm. The lace signals are then seen affixing a strict embroidered leather collar, while the straight skirts marry with impudic empiècements.

Initially discrete, the embroideries invade little by little leather liquorice, but without to really soften the dresses sharp, in turn japonisantes or sexy. Flowers and laces never appeared as cerebral as under the cold and perspicacious glance of the Scottish designer…

And if Kane could be slightly tancé for its monomaniaques slopes (which push it to respect with the letter the strong points of its claw - such as micro the lengths, the sexy dress or the perfecto - and conscientiously to develop a single topic within its collections), one cannot deny that its application of good pupil gives to final highly satisfactory results.

Initially, all its parts - also inventive be-they - appear thus perfectly portable. Then, once the accustomed eye and the spirit educated by ten passages, they become desirable. The last behaviours - that their fine embroidered jewels intend for the evening - as for them did not need any time of adaptation to appear completely brilliant and addictives…

Lastly, with regard to the cashmeres carried out in collaboration with the Scottish house Johnstons, one is ready to bet that they will be found as of September on most pointed of the writers of mode…

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Burberry Prorsum - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

With its last show, Burberry Prorsum made definitively obsolete the modus operandi of traditional the fashion weeks. It is true that between the simultaneous diffusion in streaming on some 70 Internet sites and projection in 3D with the four corners of the sphere for a handle of privileged people, never fashion show had not profited from such a visibility…

If Christopher Bailey can right now be enorgueillir to be parvenu to impose its own diagram of diffusion of the collections, it seems that this one should not be long in making school. It should be said that while finally granting the right to profit from the explosion of new technologies, the fashion entered the 21e century on one level…

The show Burberry Prorsum will remain thus certainly engraved in the memories of thousands of feverishly connected Net surfers, ready to comment on on line on Twitter a procession which one condescended to finally to present them on line, but also hundreds of journalists invited to fit a pair of glasses 3D. For them, it will be forever that which, while regarding as exceeded the ultra elitism of the mode, dared to open limps it of Pandora. For better and for worse…

Indeed, if it is creditable to want to offer early product of its new collection to a broader panel of spectators, it will be necessary nevertheless to take care that this kind of multi-presentation is always as licked as that of Burberry, in order not to lose an ounce of the magic up to now haloing the fashion shows.

With regard to the collection in itself, it seems that Christopher Bailey could not have offered to its new potential customers a better introduction to the Prorsum universe. Because if the trench left the place to many variations around the jacket of aviator, that did not prevent the assistance - that it is real or virtual - from wishing ardently each revealed part of outside this Tuesday in London.

While reinterpreting the military wind-breakers (in their affixing volumes cropped pile in the air of time and multiple collars oversize in shearling), Bailey indeed managed to condense the major tendencies of the next winter, and this whole in their conferring a more desirable twist roots cosy.

However, he does not forget any however that its customers (Kate Hudson, Claire Danes, Leigh Lezark, Julia Restoin Roitfeld…) are young women set on romantic contrasts. He mixes thus his jackets army with delicate lace combinations and some blocked skirts, sheathed longuissimes cuissardes of leather or python. The silhouette Burberry Prorsum then draws perfect the dress code of the next season, namely wind-breaker cropped in shearling + draped smart dress + top-of-the-range cuissardes, the bathed whole of colours army.

In addition, perfectly conscious of this phenomenon which makes us lose all feel common vis-a-vis discovered a new collection, Bailey decided to us to offer the précommander appropriateness as of now - and this during 3 days - its more than divine coats, thus benefitting the maximum of the advantages inherent in its novel mode of communication.

On this subject, let us thank the gods for the mode for having excluded from the operation very the intrigantes boots strapped in turned over skin. While acting of the kind, they surely avoided the over-indebtedness with good number of Net surfers…

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