Showing posts with label Fashion week of New York. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion week of New York. Show all posts

Procession Isabel Marant - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

Before working out its collection autumn/winter 2010-2011, it would not be astonishing that Isabel Marant occurred in loop the DVD from Grease. With their tails of horse and their broad earrings, its mannequins indeed seem to have wanted to pay homage to semi-sparkling Sandy Olsson, but also to the culture fifties, another heroin of film of Randal Kleiser…

Procession Isabel Marant 2011

For the next winter, Isabel Marant starts a new creative cycle, where boots studées and winks 80 ' S completely disappeared. With this intention, it invites the fashionista to be melted in the universe of the Fifties (when balls of promotion, cinemas in the open air and American football constituted the sap of the period high school), so as to propose a new icon to him - the actress Olivia Newton-John - who will be able to feed her cloakroom in retro innovations.

It is true that it is enough to evoke the fifties to see at once re-appearing the tempting image of this young girl of good family to the pace in turn ingenuous and teaser. Evolving/moving of the wise twinset pastel to the flamer combination of leather, its character, in perfect adequacy with the girl Isabel Marant, carried in it what to inspire with creative the broad outlines of its future cloakroom bankable…

Procession Isabel Marant 2011

Thus Freja Beha opened the procession in skinny roulotté on ankle, wind-breaker of biker skimped and escarpins pointed. With the wire of the passages, it is all the universe of the youth of the time which was seen revisited: sporting wind-breaker on skinny, sweat borrowed from the boyfriend football player, pantacourt, leggings 7/8, jacket as a Jean diluted… anything was not forgotten.

However, if Isabel Marant is inspired largely by Sandy Olsson to work out the looks of its models, that does not prevent it therefore from affixing its own key with the whole of its Grease collection. It organizes thus its wind-breakers of student Yankee by working them in duet carbon deer/leather, exchanges the sexy long-line bras of the time for pullovers loose hardly slipped into the belt of trousers capri and attenuates the glitter of a legging by a jacket boyish oversize or a check shirt.

Procession Isabel Marant 2011

In addition, by voting by plebiscite the duet escarpins indented/length 7/8, it puts forward the sensual dimension of ankle, well too often underestimated…

One will regret nevertheless that Isabel Marant entirely did not make clean slate of the past, by preserving some gimmicks his preceding collections. The shoulder pads in Balmain indeed start to be more than dated, while the military commercial starts of certain parts curl sometimes the inconsistency.

To finish, one notes that the skinny out of leather version biker in Capri will be undoubtedly one of the must cuts next season, without speaking about the small wind-breaker round collar

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Dior procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

In spite to have been the angular stone of the last collection Dior Haute couture, equestrian art continues this season to fascinate John Galliano. However, if the topic remained the same one, the angle of incidence proves somewhat different, allowing to the Master places to affix with its rider one declads attractive, fault of being new…

Procession Dior 2011

With this collection (which it entitled “the seduction of the libertine”), the artistic director of Dior once more allows himself to develop the register of stripped the 1900. However, if it takes again the almost intrinsic laces, ribbons and other transparencies today with its style, it associates to them another of its topics of predilection: the wardrobe male of the 18th century. That thus enables him to constitute a cloakroom where the duality of the Dior woman more than was ever explored.

At the same time mischievous and sensual, dominating and delicate, the MUSE of John Galliano is moulted successively as a young stableman in jodhpur, as a courtesan in trench with Basque and suggestive combination, when it does not borrow from Gavroche its declads gouailleuse

In practice, Galliano multiplies the variations around the leather - which wants to be either ultra boyish then, or thoroughly perforated - as well as creations in muslin draped, embroidered or interlaced wheels and laces, which often reveal a retro linen room.

Procession Dior 2011

If the creator had stopped there, the collection would probably have been considered to be disappointing, and this in spite of its extreme esthetism. It would have indeed been easy to regard it as redundant (because too near to the claw of John Galliano) and to show it to plagiarize the seam pâlement…

However, by enamelling its cloakroom of many attractive shoes and some parts of knittings impressed of languorous softness, Galliano makes it possible Dior to maintain the desire and to continue to fall under modernity.

Bathing in camaieux mahogany tree/caramel/tobacco/hazel nut, long the cuissardes semi-leather semi-deer, the low boots with the riding support and the back finely laced, the ankle boots equipped with a sheath taking again the principle of the gaiter or the boots needles more skinny that one second skin are as many models mixing with audacity spirit, tradition and seduction.

Procession Dior 2011

One notes in addition that the passion from which currently knitting profits seems to have found here an expression new and refined (but nevertheless cosy), in the shape of a full waistcoat ivory laced of broad turquoise ribbons which is likely to strongly mark the spirits.

Lastly, it seems that the twisted gaiters threaded on a pair of stiletto heels could well quickly make school on the Parisian paving stones…

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Procession Celine - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

n hardly two seasons, Phoebe Philo managed to convert the fashion sphere with its new religion. It is indeed before an assembly carrying high her colors of the summer 2010 - camel, caramel, nude and chocolate - that Philo presented its cloakroom for the next winter. As purified as sexy, this last gives us more as ever desire for being a Celine woman…
Procession Celine 2011

The passion caused - as well in the press as at the modeuses ones - by the first collection of Phoebe Philo at Celine implicitly required the transformation of its first attempt into master stroke at the time of the opus autumn/winter 2010-2011. However, force is to note that creative English does not have demerit, delivering a cloakroom sportswear not having anything to envy the rigour of Helmut Lang…

Strong of the plebiscite received last October, Phoebe Philo thus peacefully could continue to take along the Parisian house towards horizons where smart and pragmatism are moulted in a wardrobe incisor concentrating on essence. It emanates then such an obviousness of this woman in riding boots, skirt with the knees and wool pulp coat which one wonders how one could carry another thing that of the Celine by Phoebe Philo…

Procession Celine 2011

It is true that the insurance conferred by the dress code imagined by the ex-DA from Chloé is worth well all the face lifts and blow-dries of the world. It would thus be enough to slip into this skirt pencil out of waxed leather and to slip on the associated lace tee-shirt to feel ready to take down any market…

Phoebe Philo arrives to magnifier the Celine heritage diablement while making modern the iconic middle-class customer of the house. With this intention, she proposes to him to be devoted to the leather, which she combines in simplicity mode, then transforming of the parts a priori without stories into clothing subtly tempting…

She thus plates broad rectilinear leather pockets on many wrongfully wise models and declines her signals casual in version leather, when she does not work leather in loose polished skirt or leg of buttoning contrasted.

Procession Celine 2011

Taking again the esthetics of Courrèges or Lang, Phoebe Philo releases the woman of its fanfreluches and an alternative to the over sexyness having too often made offers to him the play of the mode. She makes even much more, by delivering the keys of a perfect pace to us of which the function is more to be used as ECRIN to put forward.

With final, one will retain that while combining top-of-the-range matters, rational volumes and sexyness controlled, Philo managed to synthesize the DNA of a contemporary pace, easy and flattering, thus answering the one of our most vital waitings as regards mode…

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Procession Sonia Rykiel - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

The tendency knitting promising to be massive, the mesh Sonia Rykiel appears more than ever of topicality. Add to that some Swedish settings in mouth as well as a strong presence of Nathalie Rykiel in the media (promotion of its book “You will be a woman, my daughter” obliges) and you will cause what one needs of curiosity for booster rocket the visibility of the last collection of the Parisian house…

Procession Sonia Rykiel 2011

The next winter, the modeuses ones will be coiled in opulent woollen articles, will be reassured in some Ankara meshs and will assume the pullovers knitted by their great-aunt… This is not one énième prediction Paco Rabannienne, but well part of the roadmap delivered by the prescribers of tendencies which are Miuccia Prada, John Galliano, Phoebe Philo like Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.

However, mesh rimant with Sonia Rykiel, it is with the farm the intention to find there our futures “it” pullovers that one went to discover the collection germanopratine season.

Always as mischievous, the Rykiel girls presented a cloakroom putting more as ever knitting at the honor. This last materialized on pimpantes draped dresses closed of a nurse pin, loose dresses pullover, a maximum electric blue waistcoat or some small sweaters long-line bra. On their side, the traditional multicoloured stripes of the claw - which made the beautiful days of H&M - were entitled also to some passages.

Procession Sonia Rykiel 2011

In addition to knittings, Nathalie Rykiel made the good share at piece-rates olive, the baggy 7/8, the fine retro muslins and multiple the microphone toilets in feather of ostrich (slightly already seen), but also tried to decline - with more or less of happiness - the expensive concept of oversize to the claw.

The mannequin Mirte Maas indeed opened the procession in an oversize costume, whose passage of the podium to the street seems compromised by the overzealousness of the tailor, who surely over-estimated his capacity to make the oversize becoming…

However, so the aforementioned costume seems to be escaped wall cupboard of Bozo the clown, it should well be recognized that among the other parts having acquired a format xxl, some appeared as desirable as cosy (one thinks in particular of the maximum trench/dressing gown currant, the trousers ultra boyish broad and the opulent jacket in fur corbel).

Procession Sonia Rykiel 2011

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Chanel procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

Once more, Karl Lagerfeld proves to us that impossible is not Chanel. It should be said that when it imagines the decoration of its shows, this one does not move back in front of nothing. This time, that which will receive soon the Legion of honor did not hesitate to be made deliver to the Large palace a piece of ice-barrier, intended to be used as ECRIN for the new Chanel collection…

Procession Chanel 2011

Would the skies be subjected to goodwill of Karl Lagerfeld? Always it is that in this morning of March 9, it is an arctic cold which the fashionistas had to face to arrive on the spot of the Chanel show, where they discovered a setting in scene not less refrigerating. As maestro of extraordinary, the DA of the claw had indeed made transport on a catwalk encircled small white banks, in order to contain the water in which the models ravelled

Once the first surprise passed, a second shock awaited the guests when Abbey Lee Kershaw, , appeared in

The tone was given: Lagerfeld would not be deprived to exploit the stereotypes of the universe of the Far North, daring to avoid its Cambon' S girl of more than fur than it had never used some. Thus such of the polar bears having decided to offer a wardrobe Chanel, Freja Beha, Rocha Coconut or tried to make smart of broad trousers of fur, in their affixing small leather chocolate jackets and long saltires.

Procession Chanel 2011

Thereafter, they were some skirts in long hair, surmounted iconic tweed house jackets, which tried to gain in smart attitude. With more or less of success…

At this stage, it is important to specify that also presents is the fur (recovering and minaudières, and bordering grinds, skirts and dresses), the latter, posting a synthetic pedigree 100%, did not éradiqué any wild mink herd. Mixed with behaviours these then drew a collection all in contrasts and not stripped of humour.

However, , of other made the good share with the innovation, and this especially as regards knitting, strong point of the next season. Thus tweed para and that the Ankara wool gave rise to a like with . Without speaking about the , délicieusement purified and finally ready-made clothes…

Procession Chanel 2011

For the last passages, Karl delivered a succession of immaculate toilets, revolving mainly around the mesh (what revealed them only more delicate). One will retain of this final highly elegant , but also the which, composed of a given lustre to sweater, a long lace skirt and an opulent pair moon boots, extremely well illustrated at the same time delicate and excessive spirit of this masterly Chanel show.

Lastly, if one could follow on line the cast iron of the ice-barrier at the time of the procession, one would be wrong to see any there plea for the ecological cause. Indeed, one hardly dares to imagine the assessment carbon of the transport of this end of ice…

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autumn/winter 2009-2010 in New York

In New York, each one seems to be centred on the DNA of its claw. The creators thus decided to focus themselves on what they can do of better, rather than to venture on the slipping slopes of the taking risk stylistic. Consequently, the processions signatures were dominating, although intersected with some oscillating shows - in term of inspiration - between the past and the future, as if the present had become a subject taboo…

In this context, the launching of new tendencies does not seem with the day order, each one trying to attract the customers either with blows of sure values, or - and they are definitely rarer - by proposing extremely strong shows, aiming at marking the spirits more than garde-robes. However, the curious process related to the air of time and aiming at infusing the creative spirits commonly functioned all the same, so that if mobilities more disparate and are marked than in the past, they are despite everything indeed present…


Cuttings

Processions 2010 - New York



While sticking opaque, often gantées and posting a severe mine one nothing, the elegant ones of the next winter gave up mini the arousing skirts to join again with art to reveal a piece of unexpected skin. The objective is to rewrite the codes of the seduction with reserve, while seeming not to touch there.

  • At Alexander Wang, the total look urban black 100% and clearly nineties play the chart of graphic cutting, in order to reduce a compact unit, almost warlike. Between rock'n'roll influences and , Wang brings to its dress long-line bra a personal key by affixing a cutting in T to him, thus conferring a light essential amount of sexyness to him to thwart the modern austerity of the aforesaid the silhouette.
  • Jonathan Saunders is inspired as for him long-line bras by antan, whose blouse was emphasized by multiple trinkets. Decorating the low neckline or sheathing the neck, the latter always largely revealed the chest. Saunders chooses to minimize the matter by sweeping superfluity, in order to preserve essence: a traditional, but forsaken cutting.
  • While grinding of close its model in a covering ultra dress, Narciso Rodriguez confers a sensuality exacerbated on each millimetre of revealed skin.

These cuttings make it possible to redécouvrir a female body which does not cease being thinned out the leaves of in the course of the years. Here revealed moderately and in a strategic way, it gains in mystery and will have some modern.


Black with neon

Processions 2010 - New York


Between these two tendencies, the heart of the creators balances, so much so that some chose to begin their show with a succession of total looks liquorices, to finish by parts ultra bright. In other words, little manages to make a choice between the smart austerity of rigour and a vitaminized pallet carrying optimism. Blow, the extremes cohabit…

  • At max Azria, timeless the small black dress is declined in shouldered version one nothing Gothic. Between assembled collet, matched handles longuissimes and spindles, the beautiful one does not let anything appear of its skin, preferring miser on the romantico-modern elegance of its clothing, even if it means to appear slightly austere.
  • Casual and stylées, Upper East Side girls of DKNY did not undergo the crisis, the black enabling them to sharpen their pace. The overcoat is transformed thus into jacket of officer to the collar oversize, while the slim gross moults in fuzzy trousers carrot slightly, the whole being raised by a wrongfully traditional pair of boots richelieu two-tone. know from now on how to tackle the next winter…
  • On its side, Chris Benz does not give up of anything its addiction with the survitaminées colours. Its country ploie under the repercussions of the crisis of the subprimes? The creator then decides to apply a revival program to him well to him, consisted of green emerald, iridescent blue and yellow chick… One flashe particularly on his young lady smart out of camaieu buttercup. Smart imagination emanating from each detail has what to make save many hours of luminothérapie to all the fashionistas…
  • Lastly, the Marc Jacobs procession raises more antidote anti-moroseness that commercial cloakroom, and it is so much better. All appears surdosé, oversize, surlooké, but what imports: one should not any less to arrive, these times, to see the bed of roses.

Between total black look and colors fluo, it is thus out of the question to choose. With the image of the New Yorkean podiums, it will be enough to alternate according to its mood.


It carries the world on its shoulders…

Processions 2010 - New York


So on the podiums the emanations 80/90' S tend to grow blurred, one of the strong points of the time remains more than ever of topicality: look of Stéphanie of Monaco in “Hurricane”. Indeed, the marked breadths are legion and seem to want to impose itself as a new aesthetic standard.

  • If Zac Posen is that which forces more the feature, the favours of the creator as regards volumes go more towards the costumes of the 19th century than towards those of the last decade. It is true that its handles legs oversize point out much more one signed toilet Charles Frederick Worth that a costume of Madonna…
  • Luxurious and desirable, the coat with the handles in fur of Alexander Wang has the good taste to exploit the natural volume of the matter to stick to the tendency “breadth”. Thus arranged, the shoulder pad effect acquires a true portability, safe from the eccentricity and exercise of style.
  • One also finds the handles legs in Marc Jacobs. Bent in a cotton duffel, those want to be 100% eighties. Admittedly, the dress code which is associated for them plank the overdose, however, used on a look more casual, this type of part can awake any denim or skirt pencil.

It is from now on an obviousness: the breadths oversize definitively entered the lexicon mode of the moment.


Urban protection

Processions 2010 - New York


That it or not is wanted, the to the precariousness of stability and safety. One thus saw flowering on the podiums of the atours thinking itself like armours, and having for vocation to protect the woman from the 21e century of the multiple aggressions (environmental, economic and social) to which it will be undoubtedly confronted.

  • The MUSE of Herve Leger is perceived like warlike urban who, while raising a toilet evoking the coats of mail of the samurais, does not give up of anything his femininity. At the same time sexy and savage, the beautiful one assumes the danger while privileging its secret weapon: seduction.
  • At Rodarte, it is strapped and bottée of leather that the town one will face the bitumen. The Mulleavy sisters bring nevertheless a little comfort to him by heating it of large mesh cosy. Consequently, this behaviour seeming to be itself escaped of Matrix arrives if not to allure, all of at least to gain carefully.
  • Narciso Rodriguez wishes T it to send a battalion of modeuses in Iraq? It is in any case the impression given by the camouflages units having ravelled at the time of its New Yorkean presentation. Yes but here: with less one of a case of major force, there is extremely to bet that these behaviours will never leave our fallout shelter…

A thing is nevertheless certain: the fashion helps to feel stronger. Consequently, that it is out of cocktail dress version “the last of the Samurais”, into bikeuse SM or poncho army, all is good to seize the power on the sinistrose diffused 24:00 /24 on TF1.


However in stock

Processions 2010 - New York


Eternal blue-chip stock, gold is the only able one to reassure the savers. Consequently, if the fashionistas do not have the means of acquiring some napoléons, they can always mitigate this lack of safety by the acquisition of clothing and accessories étincelants, which see their dimension going up out of arrow.

  • Derek Lam has the knack to compose of the percussion whole with the minimum of effects. While choosing a fabric gilded to drape a simple skirt, he thus manages to transform the traditional duet white signal/skirt length knee into a “it” look incisive and obvious.
  • , the tregging is declined in synthetic mesh 18 carats under the fingers of max Azria (BCBG). This one goes only with black, in order to patinate its natural tendency to bling bling. One thus can without hesitating to copy the silhouette of max Azria, which confers on the small black dress a twist of modernity shifted and very by the way.
  • At Proenza Schouler, gold is found on the escarpins, but also out of satin very light on the combination sporty in Miu Miu. Returned casual by a pair of sticking out of wool, these colours do not hesitate to leave day.

The color gold losing in New York any connotation disco music or R' B (with the profit of a smart register), it will be of good tone not to leave this kind parts sleep at the bank. One will then carry them either with black, or with white, and one will misera on elegant volumes and minimalists.


Abundance of furs

Processions 2010 - New York


PETA did not finish taking Anna Wintour . Indeed, to judge of it by the plethoric presence of the fur at the time of the New Yorkean processions, it would be astonishing that the large magazines are not made the echo of it…

  • White and opulent, the fur from Derek Lam wants to be glamour Sharon Stone way. It goes rather sobrement, any accessory becoming superfluous face will have it warmy and sensual which is released some.
  • Coloured peelings of Matthew Williamson want to be strongly punk Bohemian. It offers thus to those which want it - and can it - of what to coil itself in a cocoon with the removed from rim tribal emanations, . There too, the fur is sufficed for itself: a simple banding equips it….
  • At Preen, it is the pink duet grating and skin of animal come from the plains of Mongolia which creates the desire. Indeed, to bind the sophistication of trousers almost disco music to a fur with the slightly rustic pace makes it possible to sublimate a look whose taken elements separately would not be inevitably unforgettable. It is retained that miser on the alliance of the matters and the colours can sometimes transform a behaviour.

The next winter, the fur will thus remain a sure value. However, far from confining itself with the masterly parts, it squatte also collars and wrists, heating thus more and more the modeuses ones…


Shaker of printed papers form

Processions 2010 - New York


then taken again by the street, the tendency aiming at exonerating the marriages of printed most strange has just been confirmed by New York. After years of conflicts, the stripes and the squares were thus reconciled, while all are extasient in front of the bringing together between the foot of hen and the flowered printed paper form…

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Fashion week of New York - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

In New York, smart pragmatism reigned more than ever as a Master, drawing for the next winter elegant American rocked in turn influences retro, modern, warmy, traditional or army. With shows concentrating on essence, this week of processions raised the veil on a portable fashion, but nevertheless removed…

If it is still too early to synthesize in some tendencies the stylistic roadmap of the next winter season, one can however start to follow the tracks launched by the New Yorkean fashion week, that it is on the level of the recent evolutions of the sphere mode or the new parts to be adopted.

I. Those which were distinguished
Fashion week of New York 2010

  • Of Carine Roitfeld in Anna Wintour, all are formal: a new small prince of the mode was born, under the features of the creator Joseph Altuzarra. With his silhouettes carbon seeming to be drawn especially for the writer of Paris Vogue, this young man knew - after having made its weapons at Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Givenchy - to touch criticism in full heart. It should be said that it offered a cloakroom to him race and ultra structured, where the extreme control of the cut is used for wonder a sexyness without division.
  • It is not fashion week without the face of a mannequin being essential nothing any more but another. In New York, it was thus very young Polonaise JAC (born on January 15, 1994) who stole the high-speed motorboat to her colleagues - Freja Beha, Mirte Maas and Jacquelyn Jablonski - by opening four of the most looked at shows, namely Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Altuzarra.
Fashion week of New York 2010

  • While misant on a list of guests reduced, an almost non-existent make up and a personal look of most traditional, Marc Jacobs knew to prove that the fashion was before a a whole history of clothing.
  • If the Mulleavy sisters propose to us a collection Rodarte one nothing lighter than with the accustomed one, they do not continue any less to develop with the extreme the art of the matter patchwork, thus registering their speech in continuity. In addition, in closing their presentation of some mystics bridal toilets, Rodarte show that they could prevail very well in this field… To follow.
Fashion week of New York 2010

  • In spite of the economic climate pushing the various houses to avoid the too strong takings risk (in order to ensure their sales), some dare despite everything to be endangered while continuing to question the fashion. One thinks in particular of the duet Proenza Schouler, which reveals an alternate denim line - created in collaboration with J Brand - whose graphics graffiti leave perplexed. However, the launching of the PS11 (little brother of the PS1) should enable him to avoid any financial pitfall…
  • This fashion week was also the occasion for The Row - the top-of-the-range claw of the Olsen sisters - to take its first steps on a catwalk. The exercise was correctly controlled, emphasizing becoming basics that the customers of the mark should appreciate.
II. Strong points
Fashion week of New York 2010

  • One first of all notes the confirmation of the tendency army which, with Marc By Marc Jacobs, Richard Chai or Rag & Bone, continuous to impose the reign of the pallet olive and the loans on the military universe.
  • The small black dress is made from now on leather, wheel of this fact to the minis in skin its statute of “leather leader”… (Alexander Wang, Altuzarra)
  • When the skirts are shortened dangerously, one does not hesitate to borrow from the dancers their long gaiters (Alexander Wang). These last will be able - if one believes Thakoon of it - to thread besides on trousers
  • One also thinks of multiplying the layers of clothing, the superposition being one of the strong points of the various New Yorkean shows (Rag & Bone, Y-3, Thakoon, Richard Chai).
Fashion week of New York 2010

  • The jackets misent over a new length by adopting the format cropped. Leading us to superimpose the layers, this style of cut gives rise to new a dress code, which consists in carrying its jacket cropped to the top of a coat (Rag & Bone, ADAM, Y-3).
  • Still with its stammerings last winter, the passion for the skin with wool on is seen confirmed in New York. One finds some indeed in all the forms, of most traditional with the more casual, while passing through less the conformist.
Fashion week of New York 2010

  • In addition, the addicts with silky peelings will find within the American processions what to appease their passion, and this in a more or less strange way. It is true that the fur heats as well there shoes (Ralph Lauren) that sleeves or shoulders (Zac Posen)…
  • One also underlines that the spirit of Rocky Balboa floated on some presentations, in the shape of hood worthy of the Italian-American boxer (Prabal Gurung, Erin Wasson, Vena Cava).

To finish, it is noted that if one were one of the purchasers from Saks, one would immediately pose an option on the coats Rag & Bone, the blazers DKNY, all the Marc Jacobs collection, the skins with wool on Reed Krakoff, the cape Alexander Wang and the dresses Proenza Schouler

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