Christopher Kane - Autumn/winter 2010-2011
At Christopher Kane, if a vice of floral reasons succeeded Vichy primesautier of the summer 2010, the creator does not propose to us therefore a cloakroom outrageusement romantic. The Scottish designer does not have indeed cease to develop the obscure side of his MUSE, magnet to sensualize his atours trompeusement wise…
It is rare that a collection Christopher Kane generates an immediate feeling of euphoria within the assistance. While seizing not very inclined elements to enter easily to the hit-parade of the tendencies, the small one protected from Donatella Versace often destabilizes its public, before leading it - at the end of some passages - to adulate its work.
It should be said that Kane knows like anybody how to return desirable matters and not very promising graphics. For the autumn/winter 2010-2011, it seizes thus a lace carbon without true attraction and embroidered flowers pointing out the reasons trimming the stoles of the catholic priests to place them in contact with leather, so as to offer a light twist fashion to them.
On the catwalk, the rebellious teenager - who inspires to each season a new character with Christopher Kane - gradually forsakes her kilt of schoolgirl for behaviours more and more dark sexy knack. Never trash and always controlled, the toilets of Kane play with the paradoxes: they profit indeed from mix and match of antagonistic elements, pushing their ambiguity with their paroxysm. The lace signals are then seen affixing a strict embroidered leather collar, while the straight skirts marry with impudic empiècements.
Initially discrete, the embroideries invade little by little leather liquorice, but without to really soften the dresses sharp, in turn japonisantes or sexy. Flowers and laces never appeared as cerebral as under the cold and perspicacious glance of the Scottish designer…
And if Kane could be slightly tancé for its monomaniaques slopes (which push it to respect with the letter the strong points of its claw - such as micro the lengths, the sexy dress or the perfecto - and conscientiously to develop a single topic within its collections), one cannot deny that its application of good pupil gives to final highly satisfactory results.
Initially, all its parts - also inventive be-they - appear thus perfectly portable. Then, once the accustomed eye and the spirit educated by ten passages, they become desirable. The last behaviours - that their fine embroidered jewels intend for the evening - as for them did not need any time of adaptation to appear completely brilliant and addictives…
Lastly, with regard to the cashmeres carried out in collaboration with the Scottish house Johnstons, one is ready to bet that they will be found as of September on most pointed of the writers of mode…
