Fashion week of New York - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

In New York, smart pragmatism reigned more than ever as a Master, drawing for the next winter elegant American rocked in turn influences retro, modern, warmy, traditional or army. With shows concentrating on essence, this week of processions raised the veil on a portable fashion, but nevertheless removed…

If it is still too early to synthesize in some tendencies the stylistic roadmap of the next winter season, one can however start to follow the tracks launched by the New Yorkean fashion week, that it is on the level of the recent evolutions of the sphere mode or the new parts to be adopted.

I. Those which were distinguished

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• Of Carine Roitfeld in Anna Wintour, all are formal: a new small prince of the mode was born, under the features of the creator Joseph Altuzarra. With his silhouettes carbon seeming to be drawn especially for the writer of Paris Vogue, this young man knew - after having made its weapons at Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler and Givenchy - to touch criticism in full heart. It should be said that it offered a cloakroom to him race and ultra structured, where the extreme control of the cut is used for wonder a sexyness without division.

• It is not fashion week without the face of a mannequin being essential nothing any more but another. In New York, it was thus very young Polonaise JAC (born on January 15, 1994) who stole the high-speed motorboat to her colleagues - Freja Beha, Mirte Maas and Jacquelyn Jablonski - by opening four of the most looked at shows, namely Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Altuzarra.

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• While misant on a list of guests reduced, an almost non-existent make up and a personal look of most traditional, Marc Jacobs knew to prove that the fashion was before a a whole history of clothing.

• If the Mulleavy sisters propose to us a collection Rodarte one nothing lighter than with the accustomed one, they do not continue any less to develop with the extreme the art of the matter patchwork, thus registering their speech in continuity. In addition, in closing their presentation of some mystics bridal toilets, Rodarte show that they could prevail very well in this field… To follow.

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• In spite of the economic climate pushing the various houses to avoid the too strong takings risk (in order to ensure their sales), some dare despite everything to be endangered while continuing to question the fashion. One thinks in particular of the duet Proenza Schouler, which reveals an alternate denim line - created in collaboration with J Brand - whose graphics graffiti leave perplexed. However, the launching of the PS11 (little brother of the PS1) should enable him to avoid any financial pitfall…

• This fashion week was also the occasion for The Row - the top-of-the-range claw of the Olsen sisters - to take its first steps on a catwalk. The exercise was correctly controlled, emphasizing becoming basics that the customers of the mark should appreciate.

II. Strong points

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• One first of all notes the confirmation of the tendency army which, with Marc By Marc Jacobs, Richard Chai or Rag & Bone, continuous to impose the reign of the pallet olive and the loans on the military universe.

• The small black dress is made from now on leather, wheel of this fact to the minis in skin its statute of “leather leader”… (Alexander Wang, Altuzarra)

• When the skirts are shortened dangerously, one does not hesitate to borrow from the dancers their long gaiters (Alexander Wang). These last will be able - if one believes Thakoon of it - to thread besides on trousers…

• One also thinks of multiplying the layers of clothing, the superposition being one of the strong points of the various New Yorkean shows (Rag & Bone, Y-3, Thakoon, Richard Chai).

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• The jackets misent over a new length by adopting the format cropped. Leading us to superimpose the layers, this style of cut gives rise to new a dress code, which consists in carrying its jacket cropped to the top of a coat (Rag & Bone, ADAM, Y-3).

• Still with its stammerings last winter, the passion for the skin with wool on is seen confirmed in New York. One finds some indeed in all the forms, of most traditional with the more casual, while passing through less the conformist.

• Close-cropped velvet tries an opening in fashion medium, infiltrating in dressingrooms as well “evening” (Altuzarra, Erin Fetherston) that homewear urban (Alexander Wang).

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• In addition, the addicts with silky peelings will find within the American processions what to appease their passion, and this in a more or less strange way. It is true that the fur heats as well there shoes (Ralph Lauren) that sleeves or shoulders (Zac Posen)…

• One also underlines that the spirit of Rocky Balboa floated on some presentations, in the shape of hood worthy of the Italian-American boxer (Prabal Gurung, Erin Wasson, Vena Cava).

To finish, it is noted that if one were one of the purchasers from Saks, one would immediately pose an option on the coats Rag & Bone, the blazers DKNY, all the Marc Jacobs collection, the skins with wool on Reed Krakoff, the cape Alexander Wang and the dresses Proenza Schouler…