Yves Saint Laurent procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011
Whereas opens on March 11 at the Petit Palais a retrospective exposure celebrating the career of Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati plunges right now the aficionados of the claw in the middle of the inheritance of the house, by revealing a collection autumn/winter 2010-2011 print of codes YSL of the time seventies…
Following the show having taken place by night under the arcades of the Large palace, the DA of YSL synthesized in some sentences the DNA of its collection. He spoke then about homage paid to the work , but also of a reflexion carried out around the concept of protection. He also acknowledged to be himself inspired of photographs dating from the Seventies, where one could see the women adopting style YSL…
Kneaded references seventies, this collection celebrates the period thus when Yves contributed to the emancipation of the fair sex, by drawing smokings and tailors trousers to him. Besides one finds there these famous which rained so much in Marlène Dietrich…
And if Pilati borrows at the time its capelines, he does not forget of it therefore the capes, that he works again for the occasion, of which he “packs” many his toilets . Exploiting on the confrontation of influences 70 ' S and contemporary, but also the ambiguity of some of its silhouettes , Pilati made perdurer expensive irreverence at Yves Saint Laurent.
However, the creator in vain gives to the last style the emblematic of the dress code imagination of the 70 ' S (incarnated by Betty Catroux and Loulou of Cliff), he does not emanate from it less his cloakroom a rigour monacale in contradiction with energy sportswear and “ready-made clothes” which had such an amount of success at the time. He indeed intensely intellectualizes this decade by withdrawing very first degree of his creations, with the risk to remove us any desire of us for slipping there…
Nevertheless, between two passages “length semi-calf and pure neck”, it concedes with the Yves Saint Laurent woman some toilets certainly rigorous, but also eminently sexy (one thinks in particular of the jackets flared and doubled short sleeves fur).
Obviously, Stefano Pilati did not choose the easiest angle of incidence: whereas its fellow-members extract from the 70 ' S a Bohemian softness with the Annie easily consumable Hall, pushes to him to the extreme the codes house, oscillating between retrospective - last passages, between pink shocking, translucent muslin liquorice and cocktail dress out of satin, seems to have travelled in time - and conceptualization.
However, also élitiste is its cloakroom, Stefano Pilati manages despite everything to register it in the 21e century by equipping its silhouettes with classico-punk accessories (like these escarpins with peaks and minaudières American punch) and to confirm one of the main tendencies of the moment - the cape - by openly voting by plebiscite it for the next winter…
