autumn/winter 2009-2010 in New York

In New York, each one seems to be centred on the DNA of its claw. The creators thus decided to focus themselves on what they can do of better, rather than to venture on the slipping slopes of the taking risk stylistic. Consequently, the processions signatures were dominating, although intersected with some oscillating shows - in term of inspiration - between the past and the future, as if the present had become a subject taboo…

In this context, the launching of new tendencies does not seem with the day order, each one trying to attract the customers either with blows of sure values, or - and they are definitely rarer - by proposing extremely strong shows, aiming at marking the spirits more than garde-robes. However, the curious process related to the air of time and aiming at infusing the creative spirits commonly functioned all the same, so that if mobilities more disparate and are marked than in the past, they are despite everything indeed present…

Cuttings

While sticking opaque, often gantées and posting a severe mine one nothing, the elegant ones of the next winter gave up mini the arousing skirts to join again with art to reveal a piece of unexpected skin. The objective is to rewrite the codes of the seduction with reserve, while seeming not to touch there.

• At Alexander Wang, the total look urban black 100% and clearly nineties play the chart of graphic cutting, in order to reduce a compact unit, almost warlike. Between rock'n'roll influences and design in Thierry Mugler, Wang brings to its dress long-line bra a personal key by affixing a cutting in T to him, thus conferring a light essential amount of sexyness to him to thwart the modern austerity of the aforesaid the silhouette.

• Jonathan Saunders is inspired as for him long-line bras by antan, whose blouse was emphasized by multiple trinkets. Decorating the low neckline or sheathing the neck, the latter always largely revealed the chest. Saunders chooses to minimize the matter by sweeping superfluity, in order to preserve essence: a traditional, but forsaken cutting.

• While grinding of close its model in a covering ultra dress, Narciso Rodriguez confers a sensuality exacerbated on each millimetre of revealed skin.

These cuttings make it possible to redécouvrir a female body which does not cease being thinned out the leaves of in the course of the years. Here revealed moderately and in a strategic way, it gains in mystery and will have some modern.

Black with neon

Between these two tendencies, the heart of the creators balances, so much so that some chose to begin their show with a succession of total looks liquorices, to finish by parts ultra bright. In other words, little manages to make a choice between the smart austerity of rigour and a vitaminized pallet carrying optimism. Blow, the extremes cohabit…

• At max Azria, timeless the small black dress is declined in shouldered version one nothing Gothic. Between assembled collet, matched handles longuissimes and spindles, the beautiful one does not let anything appear of its skin, preferring miser on the romantico-modern elegance of its clothing, even if it means to appear slightly austere.

• Casual and stylées, Upper East Side girls of DKNY did not undergo the crisis, the black enabling them to sharpen their pace. The overcoat is transformed thus into jacket of officer to the collar oversize, while the slim gross moults in fuzzy trousers carrot slightly, the whole being raised by a wrongfully traditional pair of boots richelieu two-tone. The fans of GOSIP Girl know from now on how to tackle the next winter…

• On its side, Chris Benz does not give up of anything its addiction with the survitaminées colours. Its country ploie under the repercussions of the crisis of the subprimes? The creator then decides to apply a revival program to him well to him, consisted of green emerald, iridescent blue and yellow chick… One flashe particularly on his young lady smart out of camaieu buttercup. Smart imagination emanating from each detail has what to make save many hours of luminothérapie to all the fashionistas…

• Lastly, the Marc Jacobs procession raises more antidote anti-moroseness that commercial cloakroom, and it is so much better. All appears surdosé, oversize, surlooké, but what imports: one should not any less to arrive, these times, to see the bed of roses.

Between total black look and colors fluo, it is thus out of the question to choose. With the image of the New Yorkean podiums, it will be enough to alternate according to its mood.

It carries the world on its shoulders…

So on the podiums the emanations 80/90' S tend to grow blurred, one of the strong points of the time remains more than ever of topicality: look of Stéphanie of Monaco in “Hurricane”. Indeed, the marked breadths are legion and seem to want to impose itself as a new aesthetic standard.

• If Zac Posen is that which forces more the feature, the favours of the creator as regards volumes go more towards the costumes of the 19th century than towards those of the last decade. It is true that its handles legs oversize point out much more one signed toilet Charles Frederick Worth that a costume of Madonna…

• Luxurious and desirable, the coat with the handles in fur of Alexander Wang has the good taste to exploit the natural volume of the matter to stick to the tendency “breadth”. Thus arranged, the shoulder pad effect acquires a true portability, safe from the eccentricity and exercise of style.

• One also finds the handles legs in Marc Jacobs. Bent in a cotton duffel, those want to be 100% eighties. Admittedly, the dress code which is associated for them plank the overdose, however, used on a look more casual, this type of part can awake any denim or skirt pencil.

It is from now on an obviousness: the breadths oversize definitively entered the lexicon mode of the moment.

Urban protection

That it or not is wanted, the world-wide crisis sensitized the universe of the mode to the precariousness of stability and safety. One thus saw flowering on the podiums of the atours thinking itself like armours, and having for vocation to protect the woman from the 21e century of the multiple aggressions (environmental, economic and social) to which it will be undoubtedly confronted.

• The MUSE of Herve Leger is perceived like warlike urban who, while raising a toilet evoking the coats of mail of the samurais, does not give up of anything his femininity. At the same time sexy and savage, the beautiful one assumes the danger while privileging its secret weapon: seduction.

• At Rodarte, it is strapped and bottée of leather that the town one will face the bitumen. The Mulleavy sisters bring nevertheless a little comfort to him by heating it of large mesh cosy. Consequently, this behaviour seeming to be itself escaped of Matrix arrives if not to allure, all of at least to gain carefully.

• Narciso Rodriguez wishes T it to send a battalion of modeuses in Iraq? It is in any case the impression given by the camouflages units having ravelled at the time of its New Yorkean presentation. Yes but here: with less one of a case of major force, there is extremely to bet that these behaviours will never leave our fallout shelter…

A thing is nevertheless certain: the fashion helps to feel stronger. Consequently, that it is out of cocktail dress version “the last of the Samurais”, into bikeuse SM or poncho army, all is good to seize the power on the sinistrose diffused 24:00 /24 on TF1.

However in stock

Eternal blue-chip stock, gold is the only able one to reassure the savers. Consequently, if the fashionistas do not have the means of acquiring some napoléons, they can always mitigate this lack of safety by the acquisition of clothing and accessories étincelants, which see their dimension going up out of arrow.

• Derek Lam has the knack to compose of the percussion whole with the minimum of effects. While choosing a fabric gilded to drape a simple skirt, he thus manages to transform the traditional duet white signal/skirt length knee into a “it” look incisive and obvious.

• After having been of leather, the tregging is declined in synthetic mesh 18 carats under the fingers of max Azria (BCBG). This one goes only with black, in order to patinate its natural tendency to bling bling. One thus can without hesitating to copy the silhouette of max Azria, which confers on the small black dress a twist of modernity shifted and very by the way.

• At Proenza Schouler, gold is found on the escarpins, but also out of satin very light on the combination sporty in Miu Miu. Returned casual by a pair of sticking out of wool, these colours do not hesitate to leave day.

The color gold losing in New York any connotation disco music or R' B (with the profit of a smart register), it will be of good tone not to leave this kind parts sleep at the bank. One will then carry them either with black, or with white, and one will misera on elegant volumes and minimalists.

Abundance of furs

PETA did not finish taking Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld in influenza. Indeed, to judge of it by the plethoric presence of the fur at the time of the New Yorkean processions, it would be astonishing that the large magazines are not made the echo of it…

• White and opulent, the fur from Derek Lam wants to be glamour Sharon Stone way. It goes rather sobrement, any accessory becoming superfluous face will have it warmy and sensual which is released some.

• Coloured peelings of Matthew Williamson want to be strongly punk Bohemian. It offers thus to those which want it - and can it - of what to coil itself in a cocoon with the removed from rim tribal emanations, in the purest Williamson tradition. There too, the fur is sufficed for itself: a simple banding equips it….

• At Preen, it is the pink duet grating and skin of animal come from the plains of Mongolia which creates the desire. Indeed, to bind the sophistication of trousers almost disco music to a fur with the slightly rustic pace makes it possible to sublimate a look whose taken elements separately would not be inevitably unforgettable. It is retained that miser on the alliance of the matters and the colours can sometimes transform a behaviour.

The next winter, the fur will thus remain a sure value. However, far from confining itself with the masterly parts, it squatte also collars and wrists, heating thus more and more the modeuses ones…

Shaker of printed papers form

Announced at the time of the processions spring/then taken again by the street, the tendency aiming at exonerating the marriages of printed most strange has just been confirmed by New York. After years of conflicts, the stripes and the squares were thus reconciled, while all are extasient in front of the bringing together between the foot of hen and the flowered printed paper form…

• In spite to raise froufrous to squares, the schoolgirl seventies from Marc By Marc Jacobs dynamites her pace of wise little girl by threading a pair of sticking striped. The whole being realized in deaf or autumnal colours, one avoids the clownesque drift. One will misera on pointed accessories to complete fashioniser the unit.

• Alexandre Hercovitch as for him put at the same time on the matters clinquantes and the printed papers form. Unfortunately, it is not enough to separate the latter with a sober black skirt to soften the slightly scintillating effect “disguise” which emerges from the unit…

• On the other hand, at DKNY, Donna Karan handles the tendency perfectly. It setting astutely on the same colour in order to limit the visual accros and can consequently mix stripes and feet of hen without taking risks, the shoes leopard completing excellence fashion behaviour.

With final, one retains that if one wants to mix overall, one avoids the matters disco music, one supports the harmonies of color and one does not hesitate to raise the whole by the means of a printed accessory.