Marc Jacobs procession - Autumn/winter 2010-2011

Transfer with 180 degrees for the collection autumn/winter 2010-2011 of Marc Jacobs: that which had expressed for a few seasons a disproportionate fascination for the eighties indeed has just taken the total opposite course to its last addictions. The strident madness of the Eighties thus replaced rigour, simplicity and pragmatism, the objective being to return to the function first of clothing: to be carried…

When at the end of its procession, the journalists - as much under the shock as under the charm - pressed themselves to question it, Marc Jacobs spoke as well about “anti-modern demonstration” as of “conservatism”. It should be said that this one once more struck where it was not awaited. Whereas one knows his inclination for the superposition of clothing, the codes and the influences like his tendency to transform each one of his processions into high place of the hypitude, the creator has this time selected of miser on a return to a state of calm stripped of superlatives.

However, Marc Jacobs wants of simplicity in vain, he does not make any therefore the things with half. Thus, when it decides to finish some - all at least for the moment - with the hustle surrounding the fashion weeks, it is not satisfied to reduce the make up of its models or erasing the shoulder pads of its podium: it decides neither more nor less to leave in crusade against all the forms of distractions…

It thus removes the majority of the heads of poster of its casting, puts forward the mannequins little known and does not hesitate to call upon castées young women earlier a few days in the streets of New York. It also reduces the decoration of its show to the strict minimum and exchanges its kilt for a costume of most traditional, so as to not focus the attention on any artificial imagination, but of course clothing themselves. Besides the latter did not need any setting in imposing mouth to appear in perfect adequacy with unconscious the fashion…

Revealing traditional behaviours, racées and composed of perfectly cut parts, the mannequins ravelled wisely on a resumption of “Over the Rainbow”. Cashmere and flannel, pea coats, skirts midday, complete-jackets and pullovers of librarian were thus put at the honor, forming in turn silhouettes 30 ' S, 40 ' S or 70 ' S. essence is then to play with the concept of conservatism, without to focus itself over one decade in particular.

Nevertheless, to look at there more closely, one finds well in this collection with the paces of anti-bling-bling plea humour and intrinsic irreverence with the Marc Jacobs style. By the means of a made iridescent transparent trench, of a toilet covered with spangles, an evening dress heated of a maximum pullover, a waistcoat oversize bordered of opulent fur or subtle exaggeration of such or such volume, Marc Jacobs insufflates thus with her collection forces and freshness.

While proposing a luxuriously simple, highly portable cloakroom and completely at the catches with reality, Marc Jacobs places himself certainly once again at the avant-garde of the tendencies…